For centuries, the handheld fan endured as a fashion accessory and even became a tool for secret communication

Eastern and Western cultures alike have embraced the traditional handheld fan, not only as a temperature-cooling instrument, but also as an accessory that adds a delicate silhouette to any look. For a long time in Europe, these beautiful items were essential accessories in high society and marked a true fashion statement for women.

The earliest hand fan was called flabellum and first appeared in ancient Egypt as a tool to keep insects away; one striking example was found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. In their modern incarnation for air flow purposes, handheld fans were first seen in Japan around the sixth century CE. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century, when huge quantities of folding fans were exported from China and Japan to Europe, that they became true fashion staples. In that era, nobility and royalty had multiple fans for a variety of uses – one in the morning, another at night, yet another in the street and a top-shelf option for important occasions. 

In 1709, the Worshipful Company of Fan Makers was incorporated in London under the Royal Charter of Queen Anne. Its aim was to help expand the local fan business – paper styles were developed and many artists painted on them, creating a plethora of artworks. 

At around the same time, artisans in France were making fans using imported Chinese bamboo sticks, ostrich feathers, parchment, silk and lace, then mounted on ivory or cane with mother-of-pearl. Paris soon became the centre of the fan craft and led the craze among European royalty. 

During the Victorian era, the fan reached the peak of its success as it became more accessible for the emerging middle class. Later on, the slimmer silhouette in fashion encouraged a new style: cockade fans. The leaf could open into a complete circle, but came with a more simple design. As the times changed yet again, in the 20th century they began to fall out of favour, and were primarily used as souvenirs, decorations or advertisements.

In a time when women were restricted by social etiquette norms, the fan was also used as a means of communication. A book published in 1797, Fanology or the Ladies Conversation Fan, gave a list of explicit instructions on how to use it to convey discreet messages. According to the book, the English alphabet was divided into five hand positions (with the letter J excluded): 

• Hold the fan in left hand and touch your right arm = A–E

• Hold the fan in right hand and touch your left arm = F–K

• Place the fan against your heart = L–P

• Raise the fan to your mouth = Q–U

• Raise the fan to your forehead = V–Z

If you find all of those rules difficult to remember, especially for more complex sentences, these were some of the more commonly used gestures of the day: 

• Hold the fan with your right hand in front of your face: Follow me.

• Place the fan near your heart: I love you.

• Drop the fan: We can be friends.

• Fan self slowly: I’m married.

• Fan self quickly: I’m engaged.

• Open the fan wide: Wait for me.

• Press a half-closed fan to your lips: You may kiss me.

• Carry an open fan in your left hand: Come and talk to me.

Images: The Fan Museum; George Wolfe Plank/The Condé Nast Collection, via Getty Images (Woman Getting a Hand-Kissing from a Man)

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