Viktor & Rolf’s autumn/winter 2020 collection combines fantasy and creativity reflective of pandemic times
Dynamic Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf have used the global pandemic, lockdown and social distancing to their unique advantage with an autumn/winter collection called Change, which comprises three wardrobes for three mind sets in these extraordinary times. Being avant-garde trailblazers, the pair has subverted the traditional catwalk by showcasing the collection in a special haute couture presentation.
Each one of the three mini-wardrobes (which range from high art and fine art to fantasy, freak show and spoof) symbolises a different state of mind and features three outfits: a nightgown, a dressing gown and a coat.
The first wardrobe embodies a sombre mood. A satin nightgown sports intricate lace incrustations with a raincloud motif, a grey chenille dressing gown has an intricate bow and extra-long sleeves, and a majestic coat is clad in animal-friendly faux-leather. Its volume and spiky cone motif impresses and emanates a feeling of socially distanced safety. The look is finished with a face mask accessory.
The second set represents the conflicting emotions that we’re all dealing with. The nightgown is festooned with a polka-dot motif of contradictory emoji, each representing a state of mind. The accompanying dressing gown has asymmetric sashes and bows down the left sleeve, while a maximalist asymmetric coat in pink and yellow pleather with glittery accents completes the look.
The final three ensembles radiate love in the form of exaggerated heart logos. Red, black and white lace incrustations on a white satin nightgown are used to the opposite effect as in the first mini-wardrobe – melancholy becomes serenity. The dressing gown has a snug bodice and an important skirt, featuring two heart-shaped pockets in quilted red satin. The finale coat in white faux leather features a heart symbol that proclaims unity, suggesting that we all deserved to be loved regardless of age, colour, gender, race, religion or sexuality, and is adorned with glittering hearts.
For the ultimate in chic (and in entertainment), the collection is amplified by a Marijke Aerden-directed film shot at Amsterdam’s Waldorf Astoria hotel, featuring an inimitable Viktor & Rolf-written script that’s narrated by singer Mika. Check it out on Vimeo – it’s a must-watch.
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