Published: 23:03, November 16, 2023 | Updated: 09:34, November 17, 2023
Let Hong Kong’s iconic neon signs shine forth in all their glory
By Mathias Woo

The recent removal of dilapidated neon signs in Hong Kong is causing concern on the Chinese mainland, where the iconic image of the city as a place with dazzling neon has become a nostalgic attraction for visitors. 

Earlier, the city handpicked the film A Light Never Goes Out, with its backdrop of glittering neon Chinese characters, to represent Hong Kong at the upcoming 96th Academy Awards in the Best International Picture category, providing yet another occasion for lamentation about the fading neon lights in the city’s overcrowded streets.

Neon signs have a long history in Hong Kong. Dismantling signs at Koon Nam Wah Bridal in Yau Ma Tei and Tai Tung Bakery in Yuen Long raised public awareness of the city’s cultural assets which are treasured by visitors from around the world.

Some historical photographs show a plethora of neon signs brimming with characters from different eras. Chinese calligraphy on these signs, in particular, is identified as an important Chinese cultural asset. The brilliant use of expressive typography and colorful designs made the night view of Hong Kong spectacular and unique.

In the 1980s, Hong Kong took off economically and tourism flourished. Neon signs that lit up the city at night were key to Hong Kong’s image.

Gaudy streets bathed in the enchanting neon lights attracted tourists from all over the world to see the glamour of the “Pearl of the Orient”. But some Western media reported earlier this year that the once iconic and captivating night view of Hong Kong has grown dim and become dull and lackluster, as the neon signs fade. 

Let us recollect the history of this declining industry before all neon signs are extinguished. Neon signs began to thrive in the 1960s. Lung Fung Restaurant and King Wah Restaurant, for instance, started to use large neon signs as part of their branding. In 1960, film director Richard Quine released the movie The World of Suzie Wong, which was filmed in Hong Kong, unveiling the charming neon night scene of Wan Chai’s red-light district to the world.

In 1970, the National Panasonic neon sign on Nathan Road was the world’s largest at the time, covering the entire facade of a building. It was even listed in Guinness World Records. Because of the oil crisis in 1973, owners of neon signs were advised to reduce the amount of time they kept them illuminated to save energy because of the fuel shortage.

With the city’s economic prosperity in the 1980s, as well as the growing affluence of entertainment venues, the number of neon signs skyrocketed. Nightclubs, restaurants, and mahjong parlors all put up their own signs. The city’s golden age marked the heyday of neon in Hong Kong. Movies produced in the 1980s captured the look of our city’s teeming thoroughfares, glowing in different colors at night.

Juxtaposing old and new lights has brought charm to the city centers of Tokyo, Seoul, and Bangkok. Hong Kong’s bustling and dazzling cityscape should not be reduced to the swansong of a bygone era

As the demand for neon signs dropped after the turn of the millennium, the neon-sign industry in Hong Kong began to decline. With a series of government regulations for public safety, and particularly the Validation Scheme for Unauthorized Signboards under the Signboard Control System, both the number of neon signs and their size in general also shrank.

It was estimated that there were about 120,000 neon signs in the city before 2010. Most of them became unauthorized building structures overnight and thus had to be removed. In 2022, the Buildings Department took down or repaired approximately 1,700 signs which were found to pose an immediate danger. It is estimated that no fewer than 1,800 signs will be removed in 2023.

The Buildings Department revised the regulations for signboards without taking the characteristics of neon signs into consideration. Conversely, in 1995 the Labour Department issued the Code of Practice for Bamboo Scaffolding Safety which was formulated based on the materials and the structural features of bamboo scaffolding to provide practical guidance for the erection, alteration, dismantling and use of bamboo scaffolding. This allows the techniques in bamboo scaffolding to be widely used on construction sites in Hong Kong and ensures the preservation of its traditional craftsmanship. The craft of neon signs, without sufficient statutory support, was on the verge of disappearing. The recent calls to preserve the uniqueness of the night landscape should not be taken lightly.

In addition to legislative support, the neon-light industry also needs pupils and successors to sustain its craftsmanship. The Vocational Training Council and other design institutions should take ownership of the inheritance of this cultural asset. China’s Central Academy of Fine Arts, for example, has set up Arts and Crafts training programs to bring in new blood. The HKSAR government’s top-level executives should take action to preserve the dying art of the neon signage.

The depletion of a precious resource for tourism, depriving Hong Kong of its iconic neon lights, should be taken into consideration by the government and the Legislative Council, which have suggested revising the Buildings Ordinance.

All sectors of society, especially the government and the stakeholders who sincerely love the city, should prioritize the laws and policies that enhance the iconic brand image of the city.

While the Leisure and Cultural Services Department is considering how to enrich and enhance local tourism resources, it is strongly recommended that interdepartmental cooperation and coordination is essential to advance its agenda. 

Juxtaposing old and new lights has brought charm to the city centers of Tokyo, Seoul, and Bangkok. Hong Kong’s bustling and dazzling cityscape should not be reduced to the swansong of a bygone era. 

The author is a member of the Chinese Association of Hong Kong and Macao Studies and artistic director of Zuni Icosahedron.

The views do not necessarily reflect those of China Daily.