Gastronomic experiences that pay homage to the past are all the rage in Hong Kong. J. N. Bao looks into the rise of this wistful phenomenon.
An intricately carved Chinese guardian lion is the centerpiece of a fried dish served at the Hong Kong restaurant Jing, which references the heritage of the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907), considered the golden age of Chinese arts and culture. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
In 2022, Hong Kong lost an icon. Jumbo Floating Restaurant, the long-standing and long-suffering fixture of Aberdeen Harbour, took its final bow in June after two years of closure, but it was its capsizing at sea that gripped the headlines. Luckily, fans of the Jumbo don’t have to wander far for a stroll down memory lane.
A 1.5-meter sculpture of the historic eatery is on display at Nina Mall until Feb 19, as part of a miniatures art exhibition. Built by artists Ian Choi and Tim Ho, Jumbo Floating Restaurant depicts the diner at the height of its glory. Neon signs, the connecting pier, intricate architectural details, and even a scene from the Stephen Chow cult comedy God of Cookery (1996), filmed aboard the Jumbo, are featured. It’s a vivid cultural throwback that resonates with the collective memory of Hong Kong people.
A lobster dish served with lychees at Jing recalls the romance between Emperor Xuanzhong (AD 685-762) and his concubine Yang Yuhuan. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Packaging Hong Kong’s past with fine dining is a rising trend. The recent revival of the State Theatre, a 70-year-old local institution that shut down in 1997, for instance, was celebrated with a special dinner inspired by themed nightclub performances. Each course corresponded to a groovy era in time.
Nostalgia is being served up in big dollops, and it has never tasted better. But why is this sentiment so delicious, and so intertwined with dining? Sidney Cheung Chin-hung, a professor of anthropology at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, thinks it could be down to one of the most fundamental aspects of Chinese culture: familial ties.
“One of the reasons might be related to the loss of family cooking among the Hong Kong-born generations,” he posits. “A lot of Hong Kong families came from the mainland, and a good number might even have roots in Southeast Asia. However, the Hong Kong-born generation might not know too much about their parents’ or grandparents’ homeland culture. Food turns out to be something most representative, (linking the) different generations.”
Braised-dried South African abalone with dried giant garoupa skin served at Man Ho restaurant of JW Marriott. The restaurant sought to re-create Manchu-Han delicacies served at the imperial table. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Dining to remember
Hailed as the golden age of Chinese culture, the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) inspired the concept of two new restaurants launched last year. Of these, Chinesology is helmed by Culinary Director Saito Chau. The restaurant reimagines the complexity of Chinese cuisine heritage through a modern lens. Its alcohol program pays tribute to the respected Compendium of Materia Medica, an encyclopedia of traditional Chinese medicine, with its herbal concoctions.
Jing is the other new Hong Kong eatery paying homage to Tang heritage. Located within the multi-concept WellWellWell space, it is a private dining room catering to just 10 guests at a time. Diners are taken on a journey through time with a tasting menu inspired by ancient legends, poetry, folklore and the historic Silk Road. The experience is heightened with sights and sounds. Diners tucking into a lobster dish recalling the romance between Emperor Xuanzong (AD 685-762) and his concubine Yang Yuhuan can enjoy 360-degree immersion in images evoking the aura of that period, or admire the intricately carved Chinese guardian lion that is the centerpiece of a fried dish.
Man Ho’s Nostalgic Cantonese Culinary Journey Series includes roast chicken with Chinese herbs. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
“Dining is a form of entertainment. We chose stories that we wanted to tell about this time period, and then we combined them with techniques we wanted to show off because our chefs are artists and craftsmen,” says Amanda Cheung, creative director and project lead of Jing. The team collaborated with Hong Kong-based digital art professionals to turn the dining room into an immersive installation.
“It’s trendy to be nostalgic because we are bombarded with new information, new things all the time,” says Cheung. “We seek comfort in the past.”
Professor Cheung agrees that many people are looking for ways to hold on to certain elements from their past. “Modern Hong Kong urban lifestyles have replaced homeland culture,” he says. “Nostalgic food turns out to be something these generations are looking for, both for good memories and something authentic in Hong Kong’s fast-changing society.”
A 1.5-meter replica of the now-lost Jumbo Floating Restaurant celebrates the iconic Hong Kong eatery as well as the city’s food history. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Imperial treasures
Heritage cuisine is seeing a revival at all levels. Man Ho Chinese restaurant at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong hosted a Nostalgic Cantonese Culinary Journey this past November, introducing diners to historic dishes with over 50 years of history. Manchu–Han delicacies served at imperial tables, such as Kun lun bao yu (braised-dried garoupa skin and abalone) and sauteed shredded venison and softshell turtle, are painstakingly re-created by Chef Jayson Tang.
“These nostalgic dishes are forgotten usually because either the ingredients are rare, the steps are too complicated, or it is not cost-effective to sell them,” he explains. “The dishes I’m presenting were actually inherited from the master of my master.”
Professor Sidney Cheung of Chinese University of Hong Kong feels the popularity of heritage cuisine might be down to the younger generations’ need to connect with family elders over a meal and find out about their histories. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Tang admits that his presentation of these notable delicacies from the grand banquets of emperors is a contemporary interpretation based on what is agreeable to modern palates. While the goal is to remain faithful to the originals’ essence, diners have to like what they’re eating. This requires a careful calibration of flavors and textures. Rich savoriness and stringy mouthfeels make way for the lightness and balance preferred today. “Diners should enjoy these authentic dishes; therefore, we couldn’t keep 100 percent of the ancient flavor profile, nor only use traditional techniques to re-create the dishes,” the chef explains. “We have to strike a balance between authenticity, the preferences of our guests, and the essence of the dish.”
These considerations don’t prevent the intrepid chef from putting his personal touch on traditional dishes and pushing boundaries. Lobster sauce foam elevates the umami flavor of one dish. Duck is used instead of snake in another. Laborsome techniques are perfected over time in order to achieve ideal textures. “These twists are meant to elevate the dish, not erase its history,” Tang says. “We hope to keep these recipes everlasting so that future generations will have the chance to appreciate their culinary heritage.”
Amanda Cheung, creative director and project lead of Jing, says the restaurant is keen to train young chefs in the craft of traditional Chinese cuisine “so that people can appreciate the craftsmanship we are fast losing”. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Cheung of Jing is similarly keen to ensure a continuation of traditional skills and practical knowledge.
“It’s so labor-intensive,” she says of the vegetable-carving techniques that were the staple of elaborate banquets in the 1980s and ’90s. “It was tough for us to find chefs who can do it.”
Creating a steady demand remains one of the most realistic and practical ways to preserve the craft, she adds.
To that end, Jing is especially eager to use the facility “to train our younger chefs, so that people can appreciate the heritage and craftsmanship that we are fast losing”.
If you go
Our Hong Kong Story Miniature Exhibition
Dates: Through Feb 19
Venue: Nina Mall 1, 8 Yeung Uk Road, Tsuen Wan
