Bangkok isn't just Bangkok.

Its voluminous Thai name translates to: The city of angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous royal palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated God, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.

Thailand's capital is all that: A gleaming modern metropolis rooted in its royal past, a syncretic crossroads of cultures where the sacred share walls with the scurrilous, a riverside city of gaudy wealth and simple pleasures. I first came to Bangkok in January 2012, then a greenhorn reporter based in staid Singapore, and immediately fell for its old-world charm, organized chaos and fiery cuisine. More than a decade later, as Reuters' chief correspondent for Thailand and Myanmar, Bangkok is now home — and my favorite place to eat, drink and run.

I'm not alone. Bangkok drew the most international arrivals of any city on the planet last year, according to Euromonitor International, and guidebooks have all the popular attractions covered. But if you want to experience this city like a local, here’s how:

Gastronomic delights: From streetside snacking in Chinatown to Michelin star-studded fine dining, food is serious business in Bangkok. If your hotel breakfast doesn't cut it, head down to Nocafe.justcoffeeandbreakfast for some of the best bagels in town. The bacon, egg and double cheese is particularly good and messy.

For a very homey Thai lunch, go to Sanguan Sri, an old school dining room on Wireless Road, that's only open in the afternoons. Don't forget to carry cash. Have a Zeed, a small chain of Thai restaurants, is another solid option, where the pad kra pao moo — a stir fry of mince pork, Thai basil and chillis — rarely disappoints.

My dinnertime recommendations include JHOL for a selection of Indian coastal food, Lon Lon Local Diner for Thai food in a modern setting, and Electric Sheep for something more adventurous and immersive. Late night kebabs are always available at the Bamboo Lebanese Restaurant.

Inside a cluster of Thai teak-wood houses overlooking the Chao Phraya River, the Chon Thai Restaurant at the Siam Hotel is one for special occasions. Take their boat to dinner and back for an incredible nighttime commute through the city.

Coffee and all that jazz: Among my favorite discoveries since moving to Bangkok is its thriving coffee culture, which starts early and runs to about 3pm, when the brewing tapers off. My top two picks are Fellas Coffee, tucked away inside a repurposed guard box at an old apartment complex, for a morning cup and SOL Coffee, a chain with a handful of outlets strewn across Bangkok, for a post-lunch iced cappuccino.

Bangkok also has plenty for those looking for stronger libations, although I am decidedly partial towards establishments with a musical bent — unless it's the bar at the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Thailand, which is open to all. Adhere The 13th Blues Bar, discovered on my first trip to the city, is classic, as is Smalls Bar, where the G&Ts can be deceptively potent. Somewhat newer, Bangkok Mojo typically has a smashing Saturday night line-up and a low-key vibe that aids the easy drinking. If you're in the area, I'd suggest ending with a nightcap at To More.

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And for a swanky, velvet-upholstered jazz destination, dress up and make a trip to the Crimson Room. Reservations recommended.

The central parks: Once a royal property, Lumphini Park opened to the public a century ago and has found itself utilized for a range of functions, including as a base for anti-government protesters in 2014. These days, it is back to being a haven for runners (including those from the Reuters bureau), bodybuilders at its outdoor gyms and scores of monitor lizards, some rather sizeable. Almost an island of green surrounded by glass, steel and traffic, Lumphini is a great place to wander around or get in an easy run most mornings, and within striking distance of great coffee options.

Central Bangkok's other magnificent open space is the Benjakitti Park, originally the site of a tobacco factory. Completed in 2022, the park incorporates repurposed factory buildings, wetlands created to store storm water that are dotted with islets and an elevated walkway that provides spectacular sunset views, framing some of Bangkok's high rises in the distance.

A bit further afield is the Wachirabenchathat (or Rod Fai) Park, a massive expanse of parkland that borders the famous Chatuchak weekend market, which I've found to be a nifty place to pick up small gifts for folks back home.

Trains, taxis and more: The easiest way to get around Bangkok and avoid its notorious traffic is by jumping on its elevated railway system, known as the BTS Skytrain, or on the underground MRT — both world-class operations. If you need to go further or quicker, get a motorbike taxi, preferably using the Grab ride hailing app. They aren't for the faint-hearted, especially during rush hour chaos, but they'll weave through the phalanx of slow-moving cars on gridlocked roads to get you where you need to go. Ask for a helmet.

On days when I'm spoilt for time, or simply in a mood to sightsee, I'll sometimes get on the slow passenger boats that ply along the Chao Phraya River, motoring past the spire of the Wat Arun Buddhist shrine and the gilded magnificence of the Grand Palace complex.

Between May and October, no matter what mode of transport you take, carry an umbrella.

Biggest misconception: Bangkok has a reputation for sin, especially among my South Asian brethren who have lately become prolific visitors. There are colorful pockets of debauchery, of course, and legions of cannabis shops — the substance has been legal here since 2022 — that are ubiquitous in many touristy quarters. But all that can be easily avoided.

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City memo data points

International visitors in 2024: 32.4 million people

Price of a cup of coffee: 65 baht ($1.95) for an ice cappuccino at SOL coffee.

Price of a quick lunch: 170 baht for a pad kra pao moo at Have a Zeed.

Popular car: 499,900 baht for a fully-electric BYD Dolphin.

Great place to see a sunset: On the boat to dinner at the Siam Hotel's Chon Thai restaurant.