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Friday, November 24, 2017, 12:05
Game, set, match as wildlife flocks to HK tables
By Maggie Beale
Friday, November 24, 2017, 12:05 By Maggie Beale

Braised beef cheeks and grilled venison loin is a favorite among the game-based dishes served at The Continental, Pacific Place. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)

It's the prime season for lovers of game — meats that are usually classified into three categories: "small birds" such as quail; game proper, a category including winged game such as goose, grouse, duck and pheasant, and ground game such as rabbit and hare. Then there's big game that includes elk, moose and deer — or, as we know it, venison, a favourite of many. And this year it seems game is more abundant in Hong Kong restaurants than ever before.

Large herds of deer farmed in the Scottish Highlands have brought the prices down and made these meats a first choice for many chefs this season. Quite a few Hong Kong restaurants have listed venison — meat from deer — on their seasonal menu. Not only is it tasty, but venison is lower in calories, cholesterol and fat than most cuts of beef, pork, or lamb.

And the prime wine choices for rich, gamey meats such as venison, grouse and goose would be Pinot Noir, Syrah, a mature Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon or an Amarone — that lovely, rich Italian dry red wine made from partially-dried grapes, deserving more attention than it gets here.

Over at Unit 406 on Level 4 of Pacific Place, The Continental (a Swire restaurant) is serving Scottish venison this season, either as part of a grand dinner set menu or on the a la carte list. One of the attractive items featuring game is braised beef cheeks and grilled venison loin with black truffle jus. They also serve rabbit with cavatelle pasta among their other seasonal specialities. Designed by the talented executive chef, Rene Michelena, the autumn menu is available until December.

Traditional braised five-snake soup is a much sought-after dish served at Cuisine Cuisine. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)

Another luxury item that has its share of devotees in Hong Kong is seasonal white truffles. It is on the dinner menu from Nov 13 to Dec 9 at the La Table French Brasserie of the New World Millennium Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui East except on Sundays and public holidays. Onsen egg and truffle is a delicately delightful item — a 60°C slow-cooked Italian egg served with creamy polenta and topped off with jus de veau lie, a thickened and robust veal bone stock. It’s a savory dish, highlighting the white truffle fragrance.  

Alternatively, diners may opt for the truffle risotto, an exquisite concoction with creamy carnoroli risotto and 24-month-old D.O.P. parmesan reginato, or white asparagus with truffle paired with classic French hollandaise sauce. All the special offerings are served with three grams of freshly-shaven, intensely-flavored white truffle garnish. That's a good portion, allowing for enjoyment of the flavor.

Chinese cuisines eateries too serve heritage seasonal items that are eagerly awaited around this time of the year. One of our favourites is braised five-snake soup, presented by the master chef Lee at Cuisine Cuisine restaurant in International Financial Centre this season. 

From its podium level venue at 3101, The Mira’s acclaimed Chinese restaurant attracts lovers of fine Chinese foods to its elegant setting. Winter’s Nourishing Delicacies category includes double-boiled matsutake and pigeon stuffed with bird’s nest, besides sautéed lobster with black pepper. There's a dedicated wine list to accompany the food, compiled by the chef Edwin Tang. He has a fine palate and for a special wine dinner this winter has successfully paired selected vintages from Château Lascombes — a revered second growth grand crus in Médoc in the south of Margaux appellation of Bordeaux, for example — with braised Spanish Iberico pork cheek, garnished with pan-fried Korean mushrooms. This Christmas and on New Year’s Eve their Cantonese cuisine menu will showcase eight very fine dishes, including delicate stir-fried lobster with spicy garlic, to be served exclusively on Dec 24, 25 and 31.

With all of that going on, have a good festive season! Cheers!


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